With a picture perfect harbour, pretty cottages and cobbled main street, a visit to an enchanting village in north Devon where cars are banned feels like stepping back in time
It wasn’t until the middle of the 19th century that the outside world even learned of the beautiful village of Clovelly. Its isolated location on the north Devon coast meant it was guarded by the sea and there is a steep, cobbled route up to the main town which is built into the 400 foot cliffs.
Historically donkeys were used to transport goods from the harbour to the village but these days they have a much easier life in their stables where children can visit them and sledges are mainly used to drag food and supplies to shops and homes.
Cars are not allowed in at all which makes for a rare and unique atmosphere that only adds to the ancient village’s magical charm that inspired author Charles Dickens and artist J.M.W Turner.
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There is evidence of human habitation in the area from the Iron Age but William the Conqueror acquired Clovelly from its Saxon owner after the Norman invasion in 1066. The manor was bought by judge Sir John Carey in the late 14th century and it stayed in his family for 400 years.
In the late 16th century George Carey created the harbour by having a formidable stone breakwater built which provided the only safe haven for ships along the rugged coast. He also had cottages and fish cellars erected at the base of the cliff, which transformed the village’s income base from agriculture to fishing.
In the early 1700s, the estate was bought by the Hamlyn family and it was Christine Hamlyn who renovated many of the old cottages and built a car park at the top of the village where vehicles could be left.
The car park is still used today and John Rous – a descendant of the Hamlyn’s – privately owns all of the houses and buildings in the estate as well as the surrounding land. Visitors are encouraged but everyone must pay an entrance fee, which helps maintain the village for future generations.
There are plenty of attractions for tourists to wonder at once inside Clovelly. There is one main cobbled street, which is extremely steep and the reason residents still use sledges to drag shopping home. Quaint whitewashed cottages line the route, most of which are listed buildings.
The 12th century grade 1 listed All Saints Church sits in the grounds of Clovelly Court on the site of the original Norman church. History buffs may want to pop into the Kingsley Museum and the Fisherman’s Cottage which provide a true glimpse at what life was like for villagers in times gone by.
Fishing continues today but on a sustainable basis. The locally caught crab, lobster and herring can be sampled at the annual festivals and a wander along the quay to admire the immense structural achievement of the village’s men who dragged the huge boulders into place, is a must. Tours of the historic lifeboat station are available to book where you’ll learn about the heritage of the vital facility and why locals fought to keep it.
Shops sell unique handcrafted products from silks, to pottery and soap. The brewery at the top of the village offers a large range of local Devon beers, ciders, wines and spirits as well as gift ideas to take home. The Mermaid’s Purse is a gallery and shop in the heart of the village selling original artwork and prints.
There is a rich heritage of Clovelly inspiring artists that goes back many years. J. M. W. Turner painted the harbour around 1822 and his piece hangs in the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin. Charles Dickens also wrote about the village in A Message From the Sea in 1860.
Recent fans of the breathtaking ocean views and picture postcard lure have shared their experiences on Tripadvisor. One wrote: “We had a great visit to this lovely village cut into the hillside overlooking the harbour. Properties are interesting, with a great history and back story. Staff and residents were friendly and welcoming and with pubs, tearoom and ice creams available along the way, what’s not to love.”
Another who described it as “the best day out ever” added: “All I can say is wow, what a gorgeous day out and what a sensational place and felt like we’d been transported back in time. We had a cream tea and coffee in the tea room and saw dolphins in the bay in large numbers. After we walked down to the pub and had a few beers and sat outside enjoying more views of dolphins and seals.”
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