Here on the Mirror beauty team we’ve been noticing a real shift in the world of aesthetics recently. People are moving away from very invasive treatments and traditional injectables like fillers and Botox that simply ‘fill’ or ‘freeze’, and towards more subtle tweakments that boost the skin’s overall health, keeping it performing at its best for longer.
And one of these, which has become hugely popular recently, is polyneucleotides, also often referred to as ‘salmon sperm DNA’ or ‘the fish sperm facial’ (more on that later). Celebrities such as Jennifer Aniston, Millie Mackintosh and Zara McDermott have all said they’re fans of this subtle injectable, which is most commonly used around the eyes to improve the look of dark circles, fine lines and crepey skin – and several members of our team have said it’s now their go-to-treatment.
Keen to see what all the fuss is about – and if it could make a difference to my tired, baggy eyes – I booked in for polyneucleotides with Khatra Paterson at her chic Cheshire clinic, KP Aesthetics – and learnt a few surprising facts along the way…
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What is a polyneucleotides treatment?
“The polyneucleotides treatment involves injecting a solution that contains fragments of DNA from the sperm of fish [typically salmon or trout], which is the closest match to our own DNA,” explains Khatra, who uses the brand Plinest in her aesthetics clinic (Plinest is, I think, one of the most reputable polyneucleotides products, with plenty of proven results to back up its claims).
“Rather than filling or freezing, polyneucleotides are more about cell messaging; they sit on our cells’ fibroblasts and send messages to them to be more efficient at producing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,” she adds.
“They also help with fibroblasts that aren’t working as well as they should, called senescent cells – which are causing inflammation. Think of it like a rotten piece of fruit in a bowl – it will start to affect all the other good fruit around it. What polyneucleotides do is reduce that inflammation and getting senescent cells to work more efficiently again.
“They’re regenerative, and for those who don’t want to make any structural changes by adding filler, this is how you get your body to work more effectively.”
Where can polyneucleotides be used?
Polyneucleotides can be used on skin anywhere on the body, but under and around the eyes is one of the most commonly requested treatment areas, and this is one of the first zones to show signs of ageing.
“For crepey lines under the eyes, there’s nothing else you can inject into that region,” says Khatra. “You can’t put hyaluronic acid boosters [such as Profhilo] there as HA draws fluid to the area, and this will just make the eyes look puffy.”
Polyneucleotides can also be used on the skin before surgery to strengthen it.
My treatment
I had three sessions of polyneucleotides at KP Aesthetics about three weeks apart; each session took under an hour (including numbing), and included 2ml of Plinest injectioned in about 30-35 tiny jabs around my eyes on each side, right up to my waterline and also along my brow bone.
It took a couple of days for the little bumps and pinpricks to go down (which is fine as I work from home), but otherwise the treatment was quick, painless and hassle-free.
After my first session I thought I saw some improvements, but it was really after my second – and definitely after my third – that I felt there were real changes. It was very subtle – no sudden erasing of bags or dark circles – but I felt that my skin and face in general looked brighter, fresher and healthier – and, actually, a little younger too.
I feel like I look less tired when I look in the mirror, and I think it’s made an improvement to my skin overall, not just my eye area. I’d absolutely recommend polyneucleotides for anyone looking for subtle improvement – are here are a things to be aware of before you book in…
Five things I didn’t know about polyneucleotides until I had them
Expect some downtime
Although everyone’s pain threshold is different, as your skin is numbed beforehand you shouldn’t feel too much discomfort during your treatment (I found a few injections close to the eyes a little eye-watering, but totally bearable; I’ve had much more uncomfortable treatments).
You’ll need to plan your appointment well though as you will leave the clinic with little raised bumps in the treatment area; it looks a bit reptilian, and takes about 48 hours to go down completely. It’s nothing a pair of dark sunglasses won’t hide, but worth thinking about if you’re planning on seeing people up close straight away afterwards. There’s also a low risk of minor bruising.
Results are subtle
Unlike dermal fillers, which you’ll notice straight away, and Botox, which inhibits your muscles from moving approximately 7-14 days after your treatment, polyneucleotides are unlikely to result in a very visibly change; although I thought I looked fresher and healthier, my boyfriend couldn’t notice a difference (a good thing, in my opinion).
What did surprise me, however, were the improvements in my skin that weren’t really visible to the naked eye. I had my face analysed with a professional skin scanner before and after, and the high-tech device picked up clear improvements in the deep pigmentation and tiny lines around my eyes – a result of my skin being stronger and performing better.
Multiple treatments will be needed
Before booking, you should factor in the cost of having multiple treatments for the best results, as it’s rare that you’ll just need one; Khatra recommends 3-4 treatments every 2-3 weeks (although every face is different), with top-ups every 6-12 months.
I personally didn’t start to notice results until a couple of weeks after my second treatment, and the third was definitely needed for me.
Don’t forget about skincare
I truly believe that the skincare I used during and after my treatments hugely improved my results. After identifying redness and sensitivity in my skin, Khatra and her team advised me to strip back all the skincare products I’d been using and they instead prescribed me a basic routine of professional products: Biretix Cleanser, £20, ALL|SKIN MED Regenerating Ampoules, £98, ALL|SKIN MED Replenishing Cream, £70, and a Heliocare SPF (l like Heliocare 360° Pigment Solution SPF50+, £32.99).
I really believe that the two approaches worked together to get my skin looking its best.
It’s not necessarily a one-and-done miracle solution to all skin concerns
Polyneucleotides can be great for tackling crepey skin, fine lines and dark circles, but they might not be the solution to all eye concerns. If your dark circles are caused by deep troughs under the eyes then fillers might still be the best course of action, and Khatra explains that the only real solution for severe under-eye bags is surgery. “Bags are usually more of a structural issue,” she explains. “As you get older that fat pad can herniate, which is what becomes a visible bag.”
Polyneucleotides can also be paired with other treatments for the best results. “I often combine polyneucleotides with CO2 laser, particularly under the eyes, either at the same session, or after all your sessions – it just optimises the result.”
This is why it’s important to have a thorough consultation with a professional about your concerns and recommended treatment options to get the best results.
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